Saturday, September 15, 2018

Xian: Day One: Religion, Walls, and a Museum


Maybe like a few foreigners when I heard of Xian I had no idea where that was or what it was famous for, but if you asked me about the Terracotta Warriors then I would know. If you ever want to visit Xian I would just give yourself two days, it is a small town that is very touristy but some of the sights are neat to see.

If you look on Tripadvisor.com for things to do in Xian one of the top recommendations are the pagodas nearby. There are several in the area but I decided to go to the stone building Wild Goose Pagoda. The Wild Goose Pagoda is in front of many little stores that sell souvenirs, trinkets, snacks, and restaurants along with a giant water display that has shows throughout the day. Walking past the booths you can see these statues situated along the sidewalk where they show men wrestling or people playing chess.

I waited in line for the pagoda about 20 minutes and asked to buy an entrance ticket to the park and inside the actual pagoda, but the lady didn’t understand me apparently and only charged me for the entrance to the park. If you ever go to China they do this all.the.time. It would be like buying a ticket for Worlds of Fun and then when you want to go on the roller coaster, the thing you came for, you have to pay again to ride. I got into the gated entrance, showed my ticket, they x-rayed my bag, and I went inside.

Inside there are several temple areas and a monastery for Buddhist monks. One of the more popular temples was for the god of wealth who had many small golden statues of himself and gold placed in the floor. There is a custom in Chinese culture that if you wear wealth then you invite wealth so during the Chinese New Year’s, weddings, birthdays, etc. people will spend money on gold and silver or have these as decorations to invite wealth into their homes. For this god, if you leave gold on his altar then he will give you gold in your life.


In the very back of the pagoda was an entrance to go to a downstairs area (everything else was situated outdoors) where they showed old artwork of buddhist gods and goddesses. I was unsure if I could take pictures but when I saw locals taking photos with the statues I thought it was fine and snapped a few images. To my surprise I was scolded for taking photos even when someone two seconds early in the same spot by the same guard did the same thing was not scolded for it. I apologized and didn’t take any more and the guard didn’t ask me to delete the photos.
At the center of the gated area was the stone pagoda. It was completely wrapped in people waiting in line to buy another ticket to get inside. I walked up the small staircase and stood on the far-left side so I could read the sign about how much the tickets would cost and left the rest of the six foot wide staircase for people to walk around me. To my surprise a woman grabbed my waist and pushed me to the side. This lady, instead of walking to the right of me, where there was SIX FEET OF SPACE decided it would be better to grab me, a total stranger, who was standing by a stone pole and bushes not in anyone’s way, and push me to the RIGHT. Anyone who knows me will say that I am a nice person but in that moment of being pushed and scolded and not being sold the correct ticket I cracked. I made *a certain gesture* at her and yelled *a few choice words* to which this woman totally ignored. When I was walking through a garden I saw this woman again with a tour group and I was so filled with this anger that I was shaking. I had half of a mind to walk up to her and shove her the way she had done to me but stomped off in the opposite direction.
There I saw a statue of this goddess of Guanyin (keep in mind there are many stories of this goddess, but this is the one I know). This goddess is known as the Lady of a Thousand Hands and Eyes. She was a woman who prayed often but when her father tried to marry her off to a bad man, she refused and became a nun in the mountains. When she heard her estranged father had become ill many years later she went to see him and discovered the only cure was for someone to give up their hands and eyes to be made into medicine. Even though she and her father did not get along and had not spoken in years, she willingly gave up her eyes and hands for him. When I saw this statue I felt so ashamed for being angry with the pushy lady and had thought about getting revenge in the same garden as the Lady of a Thousand Hands and Eyes. I also thought of my own religion and how Jesus forgave those as he was dying on a cross after being tortured. It is kind of amazing how when I study and learn about other religions I see similarities to my own religion and come to the same conclusions. This time this goddess and Jesus were similar, they had faced hardships but, in the end, forgave their tormentors and I should do the same.

After the Wild Goose Pagoda I watched the water show in the park and was able to get in the front of the large crowd. It was an incredibly hot day but the water was able to spray on me and I was able to feel some relief. For lunch I ate at the Burger King which looked very different than the ones in the USA.


The second place I visited was the Xian wall. This was the original defense system of the city and it is massive. Along the way you could rent bikes which I really should have done. I tried walking to just one of the corners and walked about 20 minutes without ever reaching it. With the hot weather and my adventure at the pagoda, I just couldn’t muster it. The wall is about 8.5 miles in length and there is  a moat that goes around it  (Travel China Guide, 2018). There are cars that drive under this wall, that is how massive it is. They also have these cute “soldiers” that spot the wall.

Connected to the wall a person can visit the Beilin Museum. The museum has several artifacts ranging from carved stone calligraphy, paintings, and statues. There are several buildings you can walk into to see these works of art and most of them don’t have A/C. However, the area that had religious statues did have A/C and a little cafĂ© and gladly rested there for a while. One unusual thing I noticed is that many of the statues heads were scratched or knocked off. This could have been from the cultural revolution that occurred in China in the 1960s where historical items were considered “too old” to be progressive and therefore destroyed.


After that exhausting day, both emotionally and physically, I crashed on my bed hard ready for the next day.

Travel China Guide. (2018, September 12). Xian City Wall. Retrieved from China Guide: https://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/shaanxi/xian/citywall.htm

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